Image Resize the Fast Way

I looked for a tool to resize images online. My mother is 72 years old and has no clue of computers. Software is too complicated for her. There are different offerings on the internet, just one site was entirely satisfyingIf you are in need for a simple solution to resize images online, ResizeImagesOnline.com is for you. There you simply can resize your images and save them for further use. Optionally you can even rotate your photographs and picturesif you are at home, at vacation, or at the office, in the internet cafe or using the cell All you need is you photo camera and internet acces.

A) Pick Out picture.

B) Pick Out different size :

Which means that the longest side,will have a maximum length in Pixel:

Tiny ( 80 Pixel )

Little ( 200 Pixel )

Moderate ( 400 Pixel )

Huge ( 600 Pixel )

Longest Side:

The maximum of pixels of the longest side is picked out

Free Scale:

Height and width are picked out freely.

The photo / image can possibly be distorted vertically or horizontally.

C) Optional : Rotate.

D) Press “Resize!”. The picture is uploaded and changed in size.

E-mail can be used to send the picture to your pals.You have to input a valid electronic mail address.

With a totally new resize algorithm the images are resampled.This provides a higher quality than most picture editing programs can do.The final picture size may not exceed 5000×5000 Pixels.File formats PNG, JPEG and GIF are allowed.

Darkroom Heating for the Chemicals and the Photographer

I suppose we all know that the chemicals for processing B&W Photographic prints should be used at 20C. The manufacturers of the various papers and chemicals say so. On a cold winter night, with the darkroom in a tin shed and the outside temperature down to -2C this is not so easy to achieve.

Cold developer works slower and hot developer works faster. I’ve been told that incorrect developer temperature affects the image contrast but haven’t found this to be the case with resin coated, multigrade paper. Depending on the brand, the paper fogs in the developer at around 35C to 40C. So anywhere in the range 25C to 35C will be fine for the developer, stop bath and fixer.

Fan Heater Not Suitable for Darkroom Heating

In times gone by I used a fan heater which was fine for drying the finished prints hanging on the “clothes line” but created a dust problem with negatives needing to be repeatedly dusted off. Sometimes I’d get hairy strands of dust sticking to the emulsion of negatives while hanging in the darkroom to dry. Eventually I abandoned this method of darkroom heating, the hassle to keep warm being just too much.

Warming the Developer with Hot Water

To warm the developer to a quick acting temperature, I have for some time used a second, larger tray of hot water with the developer tray sitting in it. Whenever the water feels cool to my fingers it’s time to add another jug of hot water, until after a few top-ups, the developer tray starts to float, at which time I tip out the water and start again with more hot water. This method has served me well for 15 years or so and is a good way to go in a low budget darkroom.

Electric Bar Heater for Darkroom Heating

Over recent times I’ve used a bar heater on the darkroom wall. With some care, given the colour and low level of light, the paper has been unaffected by this darkroom heating.

But today I just couldn’t stand the fiddling with jugs of hot water any longer. I unscrewed the bar heater from the wall and placed it on the darkroom floor, facing upwards, under the wet bench, to heat not only the darkroom space but also the chemicals.

Before long the underside of the bench was quite warm and the developer, at a constant 25C, required no fiddling. Although the darkroom is poorly insulated, the space soon warmed up to a comfortable temperature. So this is now my method of darkroom heating.

Should you decide to go this way also, just be sure you don’t set fire to the place.

Laurie McArthur is a wilderness landscape photographer based on the New South Wales Far South Coast, Australia.
Laurie’s images may be viewed at http://www.southimage.net/

Cameras

As early as the 11th century, a camera using a pinhole or lens was developed. This projected a specific image on a viewing surface. At that time, these images were preserved by manually tracing them, due to non-availability of adequate photographic technology and material. The first small and portable camera was invented in 1685. However it was not until 1826 that the first permanent photograph was made.

The word camera is derived from the Latin word “obscura latin,” which means dark chamber. A photograph is a medium through which people can relive past events and revisit moments. From the days of stencils, black and white to color, cameras have come a long way.

A camera is essentially a lightproof box fitted with a lens. A shutter is used to collect incoming light and direct it onto the film within. There is a viewfinder, used to frame the scene and a mechanism that helps with focusing on the object. An external or internal flash maybe used to maximize lighting conditions.

The shutter speed controls the aperture through which light enters the camera. The higher the shutter speed the smaller the aperture, and vice versa. This mechanism controls the time during which light is permitted to enter the camera. Pinhole cameras use a tiny hole to focus on an image. Other cameras use a lens for focusing purposes. The focal length of a lens, which is the distance between the rear of the lens when set on infinity and the film, establishes viewing angle and the size of the viewed objects.

35-mm cameras are currently the most widely used cameras. Modern cameras are available in rangefinder and reflex models and use an integrated rapid film-transport mechanism. Lenses can also be interchanged with ease, using the same camera body. Photographers may use lens filters, flash bulbs, and tripods to support their photographic ventures.

How do Underwater Cameras Work?

Underwater Cameras are cameras that are specially designed for underwater use or in circumstances that requires protection to prevent any water and pressure damage. There are many types of underwater cameras, depending on your budget and uses.

There are underwater cameras that are simply disposed of after use. These are the cheapest type of underwater camera available in the market. They have the capacity to take between 20 to 30 pictures, and photos can easily be developed. They are waterproof enough to be used in harsh rain and snow storms, and are usually tolerant of being fully submerged up to twenty or thirty feet.

There are also underwater cameras that are cheap reloadables. These cameras are designed with economy of price in mind. These are very similar to disposable underwater cameras, expect that the user can replace the film and use the camera multiple times. They are usually capable of greater water depths than their disposable counterparts.

New generation cameras have resolutions in the 3-4 megapixel range and can take excellent quality pictures underwater.

These cameras offer options for every level of diver and snorkeler. For the experienced diver/photographer who wants more control over the camera functions. The Advanced-Dive control system allows users to manipulate resolution, light sensitivity (EV), exposure modes and much more while underwaterwhile the Easy-Dive control system is the perfect choice for divers seeking a simple underwater photo system that produces breathtaking results.

Underwater cameras are designed for one-Button-Operation and can be set to Land or Sea modes plus modes that take into account the unique aspects of underwater photography. Cameras also feature three dedicated underwater external flash modes, allowing for more exposure control when using an external flash. For perfectly lit photos in any situation, users can toggle among Macro Flash, Portrait Flash and Far Flash modes, which adjust exposure based on camera-to-subject distance.

While an on-camera flash helps illuminate objects below the surface, cameras are also compatible with external flash units, which ignite the vivid colors of the underwater environment and allows users to illuminate objects from different angles. Because the external flash is a unit activated via the on-camera flash, no sync cord is necessary. Set the camera to “External Flash,” and it automatically de-activates the digital pre-flash.

To compensate for low-light conditions that naturally occur as divers travel below the water’s surface, cameras can adjust the shutter speed and aperture automatically to compensate for difficult light conditions, ensuring vivid images without worry of underexposure.

Photos can be composed via a large color LCD monitor on the back of the camera; or users can frame subjects through a top-mounted SportsFinder. Either way, composition is simple, even when viewing subjects through a dive mask. To help conserve power during underwater adventures, users often shut off LCD monitors while the camera is on and compose photos using large top-mounted viewfinders.

With the many technological advances of recent years, underwater photographers now no longer have to compromise on quality. Users are almost guaranteed to return to land with a stunning set of images.

Nicola Kennedy publishes articles and reports and provides news, views and information about photography and underwater cameras at Underwater Cameras Information.

This article may be reprinted in full so long as the resource box and the live links are included intact. All rights reserved. Copyright Under-Water-Camera.info

Find The Perfect Photo Printer

Just like all popular consumer technology products, it seems like a new photo printer comes out every day. Who knows which one to choose? If you’ve ever walked into a computer or office supply store then you know what I mean. In order to avoid the “deer in the headlights” expression that comes over most of our faces as we walk down the printer aisle, here are some things to consider when narrowing your photo printer choices.

GET A “PHOTO QUALITY PRINTER”

If you’ve made the decision to never walk into a photo shop again because you will be printing your photos from home, then you can narrow your choices to “Photo Quality Printers”. Unlike regular inkjets and others, “Photo Quality Printers” have more colors to offer. This provides a much bigger palette for mixing colors and creating shades. Most regular and high-end inkjet printers use three colors plus black. You may not notice much difference when looking at them separately, but put an inkjet photo next to a photo printed on a “photo printer” and the difference is night and day. Newer model “Photo Quality Printer” will come with six colors and two settings: photo and normal.

HOW MUCH DO YOU HAVE TO SPEND?

The quickest way to narrow your choices to just a few is price. While there are a million models to choose from, they range from just under $100 to a possible mortgage payment or two. Ignore those photo printers that are out of your price range and focus on getting the biggest value for the money you have.

WATCH OUT FOR PRICEY CONSUMABLES!

Even if you walk out of the store with a great deal on your new photo printer, it doesn’t end there. The real cost of a photo printer is determined by the cost of consumables (i.e. ink and paper). The amount of ink used by different printers to print the same picture is relatively comparable so it is best to compare ink cartridges by volume. If you won’t be doing much printing then this won’t really matter. If you are going to compare by # of pages per print cartridge, keep in mind that this calculation is based on 5% coverage of an 8.5″x11″ piece of paper using only plain text. If you are printing photos your calculation will have to be adjusted. An average size 4″x6″ print constitutes roughly 20% coverage. Add to that the fact that prints require that the colors be overlaid to create the full range of colors in the image.

As for paper, there are photo printers out there that print well on regular photocopy stock, while others require quality photo stock to get a good print. Photo stock can get very expensive with high volume printing. Make sure you check this out before purchasing.

SAMPLE THE MERCHANDISE

All stores provide sample glossy pictures next to each photo printer. Don’t use these as a basis for your decision. These are printed in some office by people who do nothing all day but try to optimize results from their product under perfect conditions on perfect paper. Test it out yourself by printing something on your own, like a colorful webpage or desktop screenshot using the manufacturers default settings.

DO YOUR HOMEWORK!

Go online and read some unbiased consumer reviews. Stay away from “sponsored” reviews on a single model. Find a site that offers a comparison of the most popular photo printers on the market. This is especially important if you are buying your photo printer from a small shop which may not offer live demos for you to test the product. There’s nothing wrong with learning from other people’s good and bad experiences. Happy Shopping!!